I am asking the community for help. If you can help me complete this list, I will be very grateful! Just write in the comments or send me a direct message (difuesleather@gmail.com). This story is specifically about the stamps.
Again, I apologize for my poor English. It is not my native language, and it is difficult for me. But I chose a topic that only makes sense for a blog in English.
I will write about all Cordovan brands in one of my next posts. I did a lot of work and found them all. I will write about Artisanal Tanneries, finishing masters (who do not tan the hides), and resellers.
This post is specifically about the stamps because stamps are important. First, Cordovan is counterfeited. At the end of this post, I will add examples of fake Shell Cordovan. Second, collectors look for «Reverse Shell Cordovan Wallets.» For example, no tannery puts stamps on crocodile leather (which is also very expensive). I am very curious why… maybe you know? 😏
I will briefly, without «filler,» share what I know about each name found on the stamps. I will also tell you about marketing tricks. There is nothing wrong with them… as long as there is no deception. You will understand what I mean. Let’s begin:
✅ I wanted to write a short post about stamps, but it didn’t work out. While thinking, I realized I need to show how to identify real Cordovan. This is necessary for crafters who want to buy Shell Cordovan «shells» and avoid scammers. But it is also important for collectors who buy Shell Cordovan goods.
It is unlikely that you will find this stamp online.
Curtipiel Shell Cordovan Stamp
No one will fake this stamp or this leather. This is a small Spanish tannery. They do the full production cycle and sell Shell Cordovan wholesale to shoemakers. By the way, Spain is the «homeland» of Shell Cordovan.
Leder Ogawa Shell Cordovan Stamp
A round stamp, which is unusual.) You have definitely seen this stamp if you deal with Cordovan. These guys actively promote their brand. They are Japanese, masters of finishing Shell Cordovan. They get their raw material from Shinki Hikaku and supposedly from Europeans. But I don’t know that for sure, regarding the Europeans. As you can see in the main photo of this post, there can be more than one stamp on a single shell – this is normal.
Guidi Shell Cordovan Stamp
The full name is «Conceria di cuoiami Guidi Rosellini». You are unlikely to see this oval stamp in person. It is a small Italian tannery and shoe workshop. They make Shell Cordovan for their own needs. They only sell it occasionally, in bulk and through personal agreements. This is my opinion… yes, there is a lot of my opinion here, this is my blog after all.
Maryam Shell Cordovan Stamp
A respected full-cycle tannery. They process horsehides (apologies if the translation is wrong. Remember, this is not my native language and it is difficult for me). Mostly, Shell Cordovan from Maryam is used for shoemaking.
This stamp is quite common on the internet lately because they need to compete with Rocado. I am sure it is impossible to find a fake with this stamp.
Horween Cordovan Stamps
I guess comments are not needed 🙂 Just one — I added a photo of the old Horween Shell Cordovan stamp. They changed it about 20 years ago. I could not find confirmation for this, I hope someone will tell me in the comments. But both stamps are genuine…
Another thing is that this is very popular (relatively to the popularity of Shell Cordovan in general), and it can be counterfeited. At the bottom of the article, I provided proof: these stamps are freely sold on Etsy, anyone can buy it for 28 dollars. And put the «Genuine Horween 1905 Shell Cordovan» stamp on anything.
Can a single shell have multiple different stamps?
No and Yes 🙂 There can be several stamps, but only identical ones from the same tannery. For example, this option is available from Rocado, Cloe, or Leder Ogawa if you ask them, but they may refuse you.
Are Shell Cordovan tannery stamps counterfeited?
Yes, especially popular ones like Horween. Fake stamps can be bought online on platforms like Etsy for under $30. This is why you must know how to identify real leather.
Why do collectors look for stamps on the back of wallets?
This style is called «Reverse Shell Cordovan.» Collectors value it because the original tannery stamp on the inside or back proves the material is genuine and premium.
Cloe Shell Cordovan Stamp
It is a family-owned Italian tannery with a traditionally oval stamp. If you see it, do not worry — it is NOT a fake.
These are my favorites. I even added a picture of the stamp with a watch strap that I made. I would put them at the beginning of this post, but you shouldn’t highlight «favorites» among others.
Max Difues
Shinki Hikaku Stamp
I don’t know if they fake their stamp. But I think it is pointless. Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan is so unique that anyone can tell the difference! I am exaggerating, of course. But if you have doubts, just Google «shinki hikaku cordovan». Watch a couple of videos and look at a few photos. You will definitely spot a fake. Importantly, they fundamentally put only one stamp on a single «shell.»
Corium Shell Cordovan Stamp
Italians, a stamp without an oval or any border. They are finishing masters. Very interesting colors of Shell Cordovan and especially the «Reverse» side. This stamp has been appearing on the internet lately.
Clayton Shell Cordovan Stamp
Also known as «Metropolitan Leather», also known as «SPIRE». This is an English manufacturer that changed its brand name several times. Unfortunately, it no longer exists now.
Comipel Shell Cordovan Stamp
You are unlikely to see this red stamp on fakes. A small Tuscan «family» tannery. The stamp is oval.)
Rocado Stamp
Perhaps today, Rocado is no less popular than Horween. That says it all, you do the math. The stamp is oval.
«Shell Cordovan» Stamp
These are Rocado resellers. This is genuine Italian Shell Cordovan, just with a different stamp.
Condor Shell Cordovan Stamp
I really like their stamp because it is NOT oval!) This is a brand new brand. You are unlikely to meet this stamp anywhere in the coming years. But if you do: this is genuine Italian Shell Cordovan.
PeterQu Shell Cordovan Stamp
This is a bootmakers. They buy Shell Cordovan in batches from Italy. They decided to make their own stamp. I think this is a good marketing move.
Fake «Shell Cordovan»
I added a couple of screenshots. I found them in just a few minutes. Look at the «wholesale» batches; it is impossible to make Shell Cordovan in such volumes. Just be careful. I am sure that after reading my article, you will be able to tell the difference between real leather and a fake.
Bonus
- Shell Cordovan Buying Hack for Crafters. If you are buying Shell Cordovan from an unknown online store, ask the seller for a video of the back of your «shells.» Once you see the tannery stamp, you can write to them directly. Ask the brand if they work with this store. I am sure most will answer you. Horween probably won’t, but their Shell Cordovan is fairly easy to distinguish from a fake.
- Shell Cordovan Buying Hack for Collectors. Look at the edge of the material. Almost no one paints the edges of Shell Cordovan accessories; they polish them. You can often see a dark layer on the grain side. This is the «famous» layer of connective tissue. It’s not always visible, by the way, but often.
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